Whispers of War: History in Ho Chi Minh
By: Abisha Sapkota 14/11/2024
For travellers like myself, Vietnam is the perfect blend of everything: the riverside markets and cheap, mouth-watering bowls of pho practically make it impossible to resist naming Vietnam as a top travel spot. Walking down the lively streets of Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) where the vendors were bargaining their best prices and the 2 dollar banh mi were calling out my name, It was easy to forget the complex past the country is shaped by.
Vietnam's history is marked by one of the most significant conflicts of the modern age—the Vietnam War which I first learnt about in my Year 12 history class, but how much can I learn by reading textbooks?
Echoes Beneath the Surface
If history could whisper, the Chu Chi tunnels shouted stories of the war. Just two hours away from HCMC (yes, it's a bit of a trek), this site offers us a firsthand glimpse into Vietnam's wartime past. The tour guides were a mixture of humour and encyclopaedic knowledge. So, if you are like my friend and zoned out during Year 12 history class, don't worry – they've got you covered. The tunnel entrances hidden under leaves, dirt and grass were camouflaged so well that they were nearly impossible to spot. The Americans had yet to find them.
I thought the most mind-blowing thing about the tunnels was how soldiers managed to squeeze in the narrow and cramped opening – but that was just the beginning. These tunnels weren’t just simple passageways; they were linked to underground kitchens, dining rooms, medical stations and escape routes. It's bizarre to imagine the Vietcong had an entire life 6 feet beneath the enemy's feet.
What stretched over 250 kilometres, were the tunnels that linked Saigon and the Cambodia border. And the cherry on top - they were dug by hand with nothing but hoes? How’d they manage to do that? I don't know.
While there's a lot of observing and listening, the hands-on activities really bring the experience to life. You can test your aim at the shooting range, lower yourself into a hidden hatch (a haunting reminder of the conditions during the war) and test booby traps – though if you're unlucky, you might step a bit too close to one.
Shooting range, Photo Credit: Abisha Sapkota
Echoes of War
Located in the heart of HCMC, the War Remnant Museum is one of those hotspots you have to visit.
As soon as you pay the entry fee and enter through the gates, you are greeted by life-size machine guns, tanks, attack helicopters and fighter jets on full display. It's a little terrifying when you think about the fact they were in action just over 79 years ago. As you enter the museum, you'll be grateful for the air conditioning after a day of walking around in the humid weather.
The first floor is a reality check; the walls are covered with confrontational materials with photographs of victims of Agent Orange, a chemical weapon used during the war. The images serve as a reminder of the long-lasting effect on those exposed to it - from parents, children, and families, to communities. It's impossible not to feel a wave of sadness and even anger as you read the stories and see the devastation captured by the photos.
I spent the majority of my time on level one, fighting the tears and the lump in my throat the entire time. This was different from reading the stories in history books studying for a syllabus; these stories were raw and a reality for many individuals which made me confront the human cost of the war a textbook never could.
On level two, the focus shifts from victims to the narrative of the war followed by photographs. There's a mixture of weapons on display: from bullets to massive machine guns, an extension of the outdoor display downstairs.
As you move through the exhibits, the anti-French and anti-American sentiment is unmistakable. And honestly? It's understandable, given the sheer scale of destruction Vietnam endured during those wars.
Visiting these sites transforms history from pages in a book to powerful, unforgettable experiences—don’t just read about it.